Saturday, 31 December 2016

SEWN: THE ZIG-ZAG SUIT

This is a story about a suit. A suit of wonder. A swimsuit with mysteriously magical powers.


I never thought I'd experience the day when I would feel so supremely comfortable and amazingly confident in a swimsuit. Of any description.


Today, my friends, is that day.


Today I feel like I found the suit of my dreams. Made with my own hands.


A swimsuit that allows me to run Baywatch style down the beach without my swimsuit bottoms disappearing into my butt (TMI?). Let's be clear. I have a butt. A generous butt. And no swimsuit has ever stayed in place. This one does not move a millimetre.


This is a suit that let me stand in front of a sandstone wall at a busy beach and shine like a freakin' supernova for photographs. Boo-yeah!!!


Ok, enough self-adulation. Let's go with I feel quite pleased with myself and that's no mean feat. But you better believe you're gonna get photo overload.

This is 1970's era Butterick 5449, a Gil Aimbez design.

That middle chick is seriously saying "Get your hand of my shoulder. Now".
Image source

I originally saw this swimsuit made up by Sarai, founder of Colette patterns and decided I just. had. to. have. it. NOW! An ebay search led me straight to a copy available right here in Aus in my size. Yes, please!

Now in blogging her suit, Sarai did note that this pattern is sized for moderate stretch fabrics only and not the likes of modern nylon lycras. Sarai noted she removed about 4 inches from the hip and would probably grade the whole suit down in future makes.

I agree. I took the suit bottoms in a massive 6 inches at the waist and 2-3 inches at the hip. I might have even taken it in more in the final fitting, but that's what my toile shows. Yep, I had some dodgy lycra so decided to mock it up first. The final lycra behaved a little differently, but it was worth the exercise.

I also added 1cm to the length of the body at about the waistline. This added rise to the back waistline that I originally thought I could do without. But honestly I think it lends to the flattering rear visage.


I love the criss cross back. I love the zigs and zags of the swimsuit's lines.


Construction was challenging. I had to make it up as I went along. It took some zigging and zagging and eventually just going totally off piste. Sometimes you just gotta go with your gut and very limited swimsuit making experience. So if you're interested in the changes I made and the construction I undertook, read on fearless reader. If you just want to see my awesome suit then scroll down for more pretty pics.

I fully lined the suit (change no. 1). I think it lends the outer lycra good support assisting in its longevity and... modesty. Let's not forget modesty.

The pattern has you bind the edges of the upper triangles with bias binding. Um, no (change no. 2). I bound the edges with lycra wrapped black rubber elastic - basically how you'd apply exposed binding to a neckline. You lay the right side of the lycra "binding" to the right side of the swimsuit fabric edge with a strip of elastic on top. Stitch with a zig-zag stitch. Then turn binding to inside and topstitch. I used a three-step zigzag for the topstitch on all bindings. Looks great.

I also added extra thin bra cups tacked between lining and outer (change no. 3). These are purely for my own modesty and do not add oomph. Something I usually crave, but... suit of magical powers. And someone told me the iconic 70's look is flat-chested. Nailed it.


The outside edges of the suit are bound in the same way as the triangles and let me tell you that's one hell of a continuous bind of about 3m, as those edges extend into straps that are also bound elastic. The long straps cross the back, slip through rouleau loops at the outer corners of the top triangles, and then tie at the back. I did consider using a bikini clasp but decided to go with the ties for now as I quite like the visual. (Note: the edges are finished totally differently if following the pattern where elastic casings are formed and then elastic threaded through. Again, that would have suited the available materials at the time of drafting, but eventuated with change no. 4).




I did have some issues with the original line of the bottoms especially around said butt. As the fabric this is designed for has less stretch than the lycra I used, the line of the butt was a bit funky (not in a good way) and suited to almost creating a bloomer effect. Which kept happening every time I applied elastic - which was a million freaking times. Either that or the edge would flip up. I ended up hacking into that line and basically creating a straight line from outside hip to crotch (originally it's quite curved). Enter change no. 5. That sorted the butt fit.

The lovely Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn sorted out my elastic application issues, the darling woman. I love you, Carolyn! I'd used clear elastic before, but really wasn't happy with the feel or finish it gave. Carolyn advised me to use braided swimwear elastic, which is her preferred elastic. I was a bit reticent at first as all my previous RTW suits used rubber elastic. Spoiler. I tried that and failed and then finally succumbed and the braided worked perfectly and is supremely comfy. Win! Lesson? Always listen to Carolyn.

Changes for next time, because #obvious. There will be a next time and a next time and a next time. I'll reduce the size of the upper triangles on the upper outer edge. Too high under arm and a bit too much ease (Remember? Flat chested). Perhaps try the bikini clasp - but I do really like the look of the tie.

I used a perfectly perfect Zimmerman lycra for this suit and I have enough left for a do-over when this one eventually disintegrates.

Anywho. Behold the suit. I'm so sorry. I know there are a shiteload of images but... squee! It's a big deal to feel this goddess-like. Be nice now...






I wish you all a very happy and peaceful New Year. Please let 2017 be a year that does not have us all shaking our heads and asking why? I'm off for a swim in the frigid depths now...

Friday, 9 December 2016

SEWN: THE SHRINKING VIOLET

Sometimes I need to shrink my world.


Retreat for a while.


Focus on the things in front of me.


About a month ago I started to wobble. I felt overwhelmed and unable to face the world. It wasn't very pretty and there was a part of me that thought I was going a little mad.

No doubt this year has been tricky and there have been numerous challenges to maintaining a cheery facade. I'm exhausted by the effort of the facade.

So I shrunk my world. Withdrew myself from the Instagram behemoth for a start. A platform that can make you feel part of a community, but can also start to have an unhealthy influence upon your own perceptions of your validity.

How many likes did I get? How many comments?

I did not like how I felt or behaved in that world anymore. I did not like how my emotions were responding. Being part of the big bad social media world was hurting my heart. So I'm not there and I'm not sure when I'll be back again. And that's ok.


This dress was made a few weeks back when I was at my worst. I, unusually, didn't share any of its creation on IG. And it felt good to just focus on this small thing in front of me. To immerse myself in the joy of making for my own sake. And it was a joy.

This is vintage Simplicity 7454 made up beautifully by Rachel and Christy last summer.

Image source
I immediately loved the style even though it was a bit different from my normal short sack dress (long sack dress? LOL!). Christy was kind enough to send me her pattern to borrow. Complication? No instructions.

I actually revelled in figuring out how I would make it up. It let my mind truly immerse itself in the moment, to find it's own order and watch that puzzle slot together.

The fabric is a moderately heavy cotton from IKEA in a design by Inga Leo named Tigeröga.


It's probably designed for home furnishings as it appears as curtaining in the IKEA catalogue. But we know I have a thing for heavy, full-bodied fabrics so it's kinda my happy place.

I departed from the design features of the pattern on a few occasions. I did away with the centre back slit opening and the prescribed self-tie finish. Both Christy and Rachel had noted they had found no need for a slit to allow getting the dress on and off and I found the same.

I have no idea how the fantastic, side seam patch pockets are supposed to be inserted, but I kinda just went with it and I mean seriously, how cool are they?


A little camouflaged in this fabric, but really they're just there for me and my hands and pleasure anyway.

The back straps appear to be fixed by buttons (internal/hidden?) based on the paper pattern pieces, but I simply finagled their positioning between the facing and the bodice after trying it on with the bra it would be worn with and then sewing them in with the bodice/facing seam.



This is a straight size S (8-10) with a slightly deeper side seam taken from the top to about 10cm down. This is the midi length with a 1/2 inch hem to maintain as much length as possible.

And I love it. I love the length. It makes me feel vaguely more sophisticated and put together and it means I'm unlikely to flash my knickers at unsuspecting passersby when crouching/bending to deal with my little one.

It's swishy and cool and when not being blown wildly in the wind (ala these photos) has a lovely shape that nips in at the bust and waist and then flares to the hem.


And I'm aware these photos are less than perfection and that's ok too. I just wanted to share my dress.


I'm off to watch said little one graduate from her first year at big school. Where on earth has the time gone??