SEWN: The Renegade

Thursday, 21 September 2017

Sometimes we need to rebel.

Sometimes a fabric will just scream to be made into something quite unsuitable for its spongey, luxuriously heavy jacquardness.

This amazing double jacquard just wouldn't be put in its place. It believed it was born to be a renegade. Or something. The idea just kinda popped into my head and wouldn't leave me alone. It kept whispering furiously in my ear...

Make me into a Tessuti Tokyo jacket. Really. You know you want to.

And I was quite helpless to resist.

I could see in my mind's eye what it was telling me. I envisaged a swingy, perhaps slightly Japanese pattern-like trans-seasonal jacket.

Not at all what the Tokyo Jacket is meant to be. It's meant to be a kimono style jacket for drapey, lightweight fabrics. But I say Pah, why stick with convention? Let's be renegades. Groundbreakers.

The Tokyo Jacket pattern was released four years ago and past me already bought it, stuck the pdf together, cut the pattern to size small and then proceeded to try twice to make it in a slinky temptress of a fabric that made me turn off slinky temptress fabrics forever. And ever.

And thank goodness, because after a few more experiences with Tessuti patterns I've come to know they are drafted large. I made an XS in this and if they had an XXS I'd have been happy. As you can see this is rather roomy. Don't get me wrong it's meant to be unfitted, of course, but it feels ever so slightly... swimmy. That, however, just makes it good for wrapping oneself in and keeping the chill at bay.

The fabric is a Pitt Trading purchase from ages ago (or maybe last winter, I can't quite remember). It was on the remnant/pre-cut table in the half price sale and I got suckered in. I had no idea what I'd make with it, but I was strangely drawn to its black and natural colour and its double-sided spongey feel. I think I originally thought I'd make a winter dress. But I figured something out lately. I'm a separates kinda girl in the cold months and a dress girl in the warm. I was never gonna wear a winter dress. What would I do with my jeans?

I've got to comment on the drafting of this pattern. Whilst Tessuti patterns are hand-drafted (or so it appears) and hand drawn (making them quaint, but provoking concerns about accuracy) I have found, without fail, that they come together extraordinarily well. And this was no different. Every piece fit beautifully together with the next even when I had been concerned about the accuracy of my sewing.

I thoroughly enjoyed this sew. The fabric absolutely presented some challenges. The stump-jumper came out regularly, especially around those fabulous pockets and the turned back cuff. The jacquard had a substantial amount of crossgrain stretch so I used woven fusible stay tape to stay the entire length of the centre front, back neckline, pocket tops and shoulder seams. Fusing presented some difficulty as the fabric surface is not smooth, but I persevered and the results are great. This tape is awesome for heavier weight fabrics where you don't want to add bulk.

All in all I'm super happy with the jacket. It's delightfully swingy, perfectly luxurious to wear and satisfies the separates wearer in me. Now I'm off out of the frigid wind that's blowing in these photos. I was trying so hard not to look like I was turning blue!

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